GLOCK LOVER'S PAGE

Cleaning and Lubrication

Do not clean your Glock the same way you clean all your other guns, (Unless they are Glocks also). The plastic does not need all that oil. Learn to dis-assemble your Glock so you can clean it correctly. The gun is very easy to take down for cleaning, once you learn to remove the slide. The instructions in the manual that comes with the Glock show you how to do this.
This is how I clean the Glocks that come to me. I remove the upper and put it in a plastic bag. I remove all of the parts in the lower and wipe them with a rag and put them into the bag. I then clean the Glock frames with a cotton swab and acetone. The acetone cuts the powder residue very nice, removing the oil and leaving the surface dry. Acetone does not hurt the Glock polymer. I would not use Acetone on a Glock upper; but it works great on lowers. The top part of the gun should be treated like other guns with the barrel getting a coat of oil. The only other lubrication needed on the lower is a spot of grease on all four points of the rail. If you use the right amount of oil or grease, your Glock will stay cleaner after use. Excess oil will catch residue and unburned powder. Do not oil the trigger mechanism on a Glock. It is metal on plastic, a natural bearing surface. The oil is only going to collect abrasive dirt and soften the plastic over time. Prolonged exposure to oil will cause the plastic to separate from the metal rails insert molded into the frame. I do not recomend ultrasonic cleaning tanks for Glocks. I do not like the spray cleaners for use on the lower. Some popular solvents sold for cleaning guns I have found to cause gummy build up to form. We did salt water testing on Glocks with our laser. The gun and laser did very well. The only part to rust was the metal pin for the locking block. This was only the small area of the face of the end of the pin exposed to the water. So the amount of rust was very small. Our eperience is that you are better off if you don't use too much oil.